Cloth 01
Combed cotton
The everyday weave, and the one most of this collection is built from. Combing pulls out the short fibres before spinning, which is why a combed-cotton tee feels smoother than a cheap one and pills far less around the underarm after a season.
It breathes, which matters more than anything else in an Indian summer, and it takes print without cracking along the fold. It also softens with every wash — a shirt at month three is more comfortable than the same shirt on day one, which is the opposite of what happens to most synthetics.
The trade: cotton creases, and it will lose roughly two to three percent on the first hot wash. We pre-wash where the maker allows it, and we size with that shrinkage already accounted for.
- Weight
- 140–180 gsm
- Breathability
- High
- Creasing
- Moderate
- Used in
- Tees, shirts, boys'
Care. Cold machine wash on a gentle cycle, separately for the first two washes. No bleach. Line dry in shade — direct sun fades cotton faster than any number of washes. Iron on the reverse, always on the reverse over a print.
Cloth 02
Rigid denim
A firm cotton twill, woven tightly enough to hold a leg line rather than collapse into it. Rigid denim starts stiff — expect an honest fortnight of breaking in — and then it moulds to how you actually sit, walk and crouch.
The point of rigid over stretch is where it fades. A stretch jean fades evenly and greys out; a rigid one fades at the knee, the seat and the hem, which is a record of a year of wear rather than a wash treatment applied in a factory.
The trade: no give on day one, and a jean that is genuinely too tight will not become the right size. Order by measured waist, not by the number you remember.
- Weight
- 11–13 oz
- Stretch
- None to minimal
- Break-in
- 2–3 weeks
- Used in
- Jeans, jackets
Care. Wash inside out, cold, and as rarely as you can bear — that is what keeps the fade honest. No bleach, no tumble dryer. Hang to dry away from direct sun. Expect some indigo transfer onto light upholstery for the first few wears; it settles.
Cloth 03
Linen blend
Linen is the coolest cloth we stock and the most honest about it. The fibre is hollow, so it moves air and dries fast against the skin — which is why it has been the right answer for hot, humid weather for several thousand years.
We blend it with cotton rather than selling it pure, because pure linen collapses into creases by mid-morning. The blend keeps enough structure to look deliberate at four in the afternoon while losing very little of the coolness.
The trade: it creases, and it is meant to. If a crease-free shirt at 6pm is the requirement, cotton is the better choice.
- Weight
- 150–170 gsm
- Breathability
- Highest
- Creasing
- By design
- Used in
- Summer shirts
Care. Gentle cold wash, low spin. Never wring it. Line dry in shade and it will hang most of its own creases out. Iron slightly damp on a medium setting if you want it crisp — or leave it, which is the point of linen.